Bandwidth Place 2

lol

Honestly, I bet if you replaced the power brick with a fresh one you can use the WRT54GL for another 6-7+ years haha. Replace existing capacitors on the router with solid caps would make it virtually immortal.

I use this thing, it meets your requirement and has gigabit ethernet ports:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6833320038

As for N16's stability... dat uptime My WRT54GL is still running fantastically as the router for my parents (who are hundreds of miles away so low maintenance for me is key).

P.S. No, the power grid wasn't that reliable. I just have the router powered through a battery backup.

lol

Y U NO PS4

jk.

Most/all of your devices will connect at "150Mbps" or lower. That said, you're going to see a couple more MB/s throughput vs WiFi G but it's still going to be lower than 10MB/s. I don't think you'll notice any improvement beyond placebo.

You might have some hope if you get a 5GHz router
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/lanwan/r ... 5-ghz-dn-c
vs only 2.4GHz
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/lanwan/r ... 4-ghz-dn-c
but of course the device must also support 5GHz to get the benefit.

Oh and note that 5GHz has a lower range and cannot penetrate walls as well as 2.4GHz. Just in general, higher frequencies become worse and worse at going through things.

Tangent:
Just look at WiFi AC's successor:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11ad
It achieves even greater speed by using 60GHz... which is effectively a line-of-sight frequency.

The 60 GHz signal cannot typically penetrate walls but can propagate off reflections from walls, ceilings, floors and objects using beamforming built into the WiGig system. When roaming away from the main room the protocol can switch to make use of the other lower bands at a much lower rate, but which propagate through walls.

TL;DR, the benefit of WiFi AD is lost upon leaving the room the router is in. What is the future coming to? I'd have to run wires to each room and have a WiFi AD access point in each of those rooms to maintain AD's speeds.

NOTE: This is coming from a guy that depends on a phat pipe to my server to have any sort of productivity. WiFi is a joke to me. My devices are wired if possible, and my parents' house (versus my measly studio apartment) has Router <---> Switch <---> Switch <---> Switch set up to span the house in gigabit goodness. I dream of 10Gbps but lack of consumer demand leaves that speed really expensive.
From my perspective, all these WiFi options range from slow to very slow.

lol

I pay attention to my B's, B = Byte, b = bit for me, always.

I see I shouldn't have been editing away at my post as you're still awake.

lol

WiFi G should be able to deliver your internet's 25Mbps just fine. How much are the devices communicating within the LAN?

I typically get ~6MB/s and peak at 8MB/s on my rMBP through WiFi N. FWIW.

EDIT: The edit wars commece

lol

NOTE: My ideas about replacing the power brick and capacitors are just my opinion and I am not an electrical engineer. Those are just the things I feel are most likely to fail or have the shortest lifespan.

Where to buy electronic components? www.mouser.com comes to mind.

lol

I thought of a weak argument for getting a WiFi N router. What if your N device's (like the smartphones) wireless chips operate more efficiently on their native N vs operating backwards compatible with G? Think about the potential 5 minutes more of battery life!!!!!!!111eleven

I personally was driven by "I want the latest stuff." Meaning if I were to buy a router now, it would be WiFi AC.

Electrolytic capacitors do usually dry out and die over time and garbage caps tend to die faster.

As far as whether or not you should keep your linksys depends? What kind of speeds are you
getting now? If the connection speeds are adequate for your household, and you can get it
running again, then I see no reason to replace it. The power brick is probably cheap, and
capacitors are very cheap.

I tend to remember that you can mod a lot of those old WRT54G's by adding better antenna
and installing a cooling fan so that you can crank up the transmitter power. Supposed to
be a big jump in performance in doing that, but I do believe you need to be able to run
DDWRT or Tomato to do that.


As far as your monitor goes, you can be assured it was most likely either a bad cap or
a faulty inverter. Both are very cheap and very easy fixes.

I use the exact same router and I love it. My hardwired connections are My PC, my wife's PC and Magic Jack. We have 2 smart phones, laptop, Printer, PS3, and Wii all wireless. We use Netflix on multiple devices and never have an issue related to my router.

This sale might be easier than resoldering caps and stuff

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6833124190